cream of roasted chestnut soup with fennel

cream of roasted chestnut soup with fennel

The inspiration behind this recipe comes from my brother in law Thomas, who made this soup for me many years ago when I visited them in the US. This very fond memory, and my desire to make good use of chestnuts that are currently in their short annual season, and which I thought I could easily forage for, made it all seem like the perfect idea.

I also like the idea of getting up close and personal with food that I am not that familiar with, and something that is not widely eaten in South Africa.

I asked where the best places to find chestnuts where and I swung past  one day when I was in the area to gather up a bag for my soup.

I did at least take a bag.

I arrived at the spot to find someone there with the same idea. Someone I very quickly established was way better prepared than myself.

I sussed out his whole chestnut operation and then thought Id better get some info before I began gathering. He asked if I had gloves. I said no. He started laughing.

I picked up my first chestnut and instantly understood the need for thick leather gardening gloves. The needle sharp bristles piercing right through the bag that I had made into a makeshift glove. Very painful!

the very sharp bristles of a chestnut and the inner nut after roasting

chestnut trees along the side of the road

My dream of making Thomas’s roast chestnut soup very quickly started dissipating before me.

I decided on plan B and asked the old guy where I could buy some, to which he promptly offered to sell.

As it turns out, Abel does this chestnut gig as a hobby and sells to whoever will buy and for his own consumption.

The price of R30 for a kilogram was set, with the chestnuts already taken out of the prickly shells. You have to beat them with a brick to dislodge, which is another layer of undesirable work I was very happy to avoid.

Abel let me choose my chestnuts, and without a scale kept telling to take more. In the end I got 1.5kgs for the price.

Abel with his self made long chestnut picking pole (another essential tool if the chestnuts are not lying on the ground)

So now the task of making the soup.

Without a set recipe, I had Thomas explain how I should tackle the process. He is quite particular (and German), so no detail was left out, which is one of the characteristics about him that I love the most.

First you have to cut a cross in the top of each chestnut and despite using my brand new Wusthof paring knife, this was very difficult.  Then preheat the oven to 200 C and roast the chestnuts for 30 minutes, until the outer skin starts pulling away from the inner flesh.

Allow to cool (I did overnight).

Now came the painstaking task off cracking off the outer hard shell, then removing the second furry layer to reach the smooth chestnut inner part. Once again, not an easy job at all.  The second layer does not come away easily.  I landed up boiling some of the chestnuts for a few minutes to soften this layer, and found this helped quite a bit.

After tweeting for help, I established that certain cultivares of chestnuts are easier to peel than others. I clearly didn’t have these.

About half way through my 1kg pile of chestnuts, with my fingers in pain and being cut and pierced, I started to wonder if this damn recipe was really worth all the trouble.  I hate fighting with my food which is why I don’t cook artichokes, I won’t peel masses of pistachios and I loathe cutting butternut.  Its all just too much hard work.

But at the same time I have wanted to make this soup for so many years and had gone to so much effort already, it was too late to give up.

I was also nibbling on a few bits of the roasted flesh and was loving the taste.

I landed up with a bout 1 1/2 cups of useable chestnuts.

I chopped half an onion finely and sweted off in a little olive oil and then a knob of butter, until soft and transluscent (about 8 minutes).  I then added the chestnuts and covered them with water.  I added 1 Tbs of liquid stock (Nomu fond), you dont want the stock to over power, you want the chestnut flavour to be the hero.  I also added a few sprigs of chopped fennel leaves and allowed this all to simmer for 30 minutes.

Allow it to cool a bit and then blend. The texture becomes very thick and creamy.  Put the pot back onto the heat, adjust seasoning and add more chopped fennel and a few Tablespoons of cream (about 2 – 3).  The texture of this soup thins out nicely when heated and as soon as it cools it thickens.

My first mouthful sent me into food heaven.  Such an unusual and beautiful flavour.  I remember why this recipe had left such an imprint in my mind

The whole experience of meeting and talking to the delightful Abel, explaining to him what a blog is and asking him if I could take a picture just filled my soul with warmth. He gave me his phone number and advised that he would happily be my chestnut ‘dealer’ whenever I needed it. I have a feeling, despite all the pain and suffering and hard work, I will be making a call around this time next year.

thick and creamy with a subtle and distinct flavour

Abel with his chestnut picking and peeling operation along the side of the road

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10 Responses to cream of roasted chestnut soup with fennel

  1. Alida April 12, 2011 at 5:40 pm #

    Lovely Sam! What an ordeal, but I trust you that it was absolutely worth it! 🙂

  2. Thomas April 12, 2011 at 9:22 pm #

    Hey, Sammo. Very impressive site, and wonderful pictures. I love how the story comes together, and am impressed by your writing. Will scout out your site a little more in due course. How was the soup? By the way, some paprika often complements fennel, especially the seeds.
    Ciao,
    T

  3. Sam April 12, 2011 at 9:37 pm #

    Thanks Thomas
    It was absolutely delicious and in the end it may have been worth the effort. I would have loved to make it with ready roasted chestnuts though.
    I think a very small amount of garlic could also work.
    Thanks for the inspiration and sharing
    s

  4. Sam April 12, 2011 at 9:38 pm #

    Thanks Ally, my fingers are cut and a bit ‘shredded’ in parts, but the flavour and the experience of making this soup was worth it.
    I thought I would love to make a chestnut ice cream – but for now a bit chestnutted out.

  5. Thomas April 12, 2011 at 10:16 pm #

    By the way, in Switzerland they puree the chestnuts, sweeten the puree, squeeze it out in thin strips over a merangue, top it off with beaten cream – and call it “Vermicell”; delicious autumnal dessert.
    T

  6. Kimberley April 13, 2011 at 12:02 pm #

    I so enjoyed reading this post!!
    I agree with Thomas, lovely story and so well written!

  7. Jane-Anne Hobbs April 13, 2011 at 1:06 pm #

    Brilliant post! I also went and collected a bag of chestnuts, in self-same spot, last week, and was infuriated to see a team of people with long poles stripping these trees and filling huge bags of them, obviously to sell. Unfair! I think they should be shared out, don’t you? Lovely recipe and pics; now I know what to do with my chestnuts!

  8. Cindy Taylor April 13, 2011 at 1:13 pm #

    That looks lovely, I can’t believe how often I have driven that road and not known they’re chestnut treas!

  9. Lori April 14, 2011 at 1:57 pm #

    Lovely post Sam. What a stunning soup – one I hope to taste if not make 🙂

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    […] I went through a rather interesting adventure with these furry little buggers in order to make my roasted chestnut soup with fennel. I established from Massimo that the chestnuts need to be roasted over an open flame with holes in […]

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